The history of eyeliner dates back to ancient civilizations and has been worn by both men and women alike. Though the ingredients and application methods have changed, the look remains oddly consistent. Take a look at the evolution of the modern-day eyeliner.

Ancient Eyeliner History

Egypt. As early as 10,000 BC Egyptians were donning various cosmetics not only for aesthetics but to protect the skin from the scorching desert sun. Research has also speculated that eyeliner was worn to protect the wearer from the evil eye.

A prominent characteristic of the Egyptian façade for both men and women was the heavily lined eye. Ancient Egyptians used kohl eyeliners produced with a variety of materials including lead, copper ore and antimony, a toxic metallic element. The elements were ground into a paste and applied with rounded sticks of wood, bronze, or glass created for the purpose. Kohl pots were common and used to crush and serve as cosmetic containers for the eye makeup. The widespread use of kohl is historically documented in the sheer number of kohl pots found among burial belongings from the late Old Kingdom to the end of the New Kingdom.

Persia. In the first Persian empire, the importance given to the eyes was symbolic of a source of spiritual knowledge.  Kohl was one of the most important cosmetic items of the times and was applied for therapeutic and ritualistic purposes just like Egypt.

Greece. The Greeks of this time also used kohl to darken their eyes as well as their brows. Darkened brows that met across the bridge of the nose was considered a sign of beauty.

Eyeliner Falls Out of Favor

But not all ancient civilizations looked upon eyeliner as a sign of beauty. The ancient Romans considered any woman making up her eyes to be disreputable.  Though the practice of outlining the eyes was still practiced in India, South Asia, and the Middle East, it fell out of favor in Europe for over a thousand years only reemerging with the discovery of King Tutt’s tomb.

Modern Eyeliner History

1920s

Though the use of eyeliner can be traced back thousands of years, the modern-day practice of wearing dark eyeliner can be traced to the discovery of Nefertiti’s bust in 1912 as well as the discovery of King Tutt’s tomb in 1922 which fascinated people worldwide, especially American women. They had finally won the right to vote and thanks to the influence of actresses like Clara Bow, they seemed to assert their independence more freely. Gone were the days of pinching the cheeks for a subtle blush. Fashionable young women began to recreate the Egyptian eye by using eyeliner liberally.

1930s

The 1930s was a decade of elegance and simplicity.  Eyes were accented with one thick line on the upper lid made popular by actresses of the time such as Greta Garbo.

1940s

Eyeliner took on another role in the 1940s.  During the Second World War, nylon was desperately needed to make parachutes which led to the ban on the manufacturing of nylon stockings.  Enterprising young women of the era began a ritual called “leg painting”.  They would stain their legs with tea bags or gravy granules to simulate stockings, then draw a “seam” up the back with eyeliner.

1950s – 1960s

The cat-eye was the fashion in the 1950s and continued into the 1960s. The 1960s brought about the invention of liquid eyeliner and it was applied to create thick black lines around the eyes in the fashion industry. Several approaches to the “cat-eye” emerged thanks to Sophia Loren, Twiggy, and Audrey Hepburn.

1970s

As far as eyeliner trends, the 1970s were as diverse as you can get.  In the decade of the environmental movement and women’s rights, a more natural approach to makeup was fashionable.  Eyeliner switched to a more natural look in earth tones.

This was also the decade of the disco queen where glittery, smokey eyes reigned supreme.

1980s-1990s

The 1980s was the decade of the material girl. The long natural hair of the 70s gave way to overexaggerated puffy hairstyles . . . the bigger the better. Makeup colors were vibrant including eyeliners. Black eyeliner was also generously used on the inner eyelids as well as the outer.

Today

Today eyeliner is commonplace and comes in a variety of colors and applications. Many women add it to their daily makeup routines. Today, eyeliner is also used liberally as an artistic expression of statement for gothic and emo styles.

Resources

Eldridge, Lisa. Face Paint: The Story of Makeup. United States, ABRAMS, 2015.

Hall, Lee. Common Threads: A Parade of American Clothing. United Kingdom, Little, Brown, 1992.

Bjork, Angela, and Daniela Turudich. Vintage Face. Long Beach: Streamline Press, 2001. Print.

Stoller, Debbie, and Henzel, Laurie. The Bust DIY Guide to Life: Making Your Way Through Every Day. United States, ABRAMS, 2014.

Klingler, Daniel. Everyday Makeup Secrets: Tips for Choosing the Best Makeup for Your Unique Features. United Kingdom, DK Publishing, 2015.

Cultural Encyclopedia of the Body. United States, Greenwood Press, 2008.